West Highland Week – May 2012
A week’s break in Scotland with
Sarah, which was a really long time coming. Trips planned for Christmas time
and Easter had to be abandoned due to fearsome weather, so we reckon we
deserved the break. The main plan was to get out to the islands, and the timetable
allowed a good round trip of Arisaig – Eigg – Rum – Arisaig, but we had a few
days to play with first.
Down to the King’s House for a
good scoff and a few pints, then down Glen Etive to camp for the night. It was
a first chance to show Sarah all the places in the Glen I’d enjoyed as a kid
when May and John lived up there, and we drove down to the loch later for a wee
look. They were harvesting the trees, and working late loading them onto a big
barge. Makes sense as you wouldn’t get trucks down the road very easily.
A good night’s kip and we were
off for the Aonach Eagach. (Wow – spellcheck came up with earache!). Stopped at
the top layby to drop off trainers, and then drove down to the new car park
just at the bridge where you turn off for the Clachaig. There’s a great path
more or less straight up from here to the top of the Munro, and it’s a good
trick for busy weekends as it means you go against the crowds which means less
hanging around. Met some nice folk on the top, a guy from Falkirk, and a German
lady who didn’t half know her geography. The air was very clear so no problems
with visibility, turns out she visits Scotland about four times a year for
walking trips, more than lots of Scots!
Got to far end, made it down,
switched to trainers power and had a nice stroll down the glen, Clachaig
mobbed, including a birthday party, so quick pint and off. Tried phoning a few
bunkhouses but all full so just motored on up to Arisaig and camped in the
first site we found. It was fine, although we didn’t realise till the morning
there were no showers! Ok for a tenner I suppose but won’t be back.
The morning was a bit clammy and
misty, but nothing too unpleasant as we walked back over. Showers at the hall
were fantastic. The café bloke was insistent he couldn’t serve a full
breakfast, although he was offering rolls with egg, (spelt eigg haha) sausage,
black pudding or bacon. Quite why he couldn’t put all those on a plate was
unfathomable but a couple of bacon roll went down just fine. The Shearwater
arrived bang on time and the sail round to Rum was easy, we looked out for
eagles a lot, but no joy.
Arriving in Kinloch, and if you
ignore the hills for a minute, everything is dominated by the castle, you just
can’t miss it. There’s also a quirky mix of old and new buildings, but overall
there’s a very calm feeling about the place. We found the little camping area
clean and dry, and complete with kitchen sink. Tent was up in no time, the day
was fairing up nicely, and we went off to explore the village. The wee shop at
the community place is a laugh, sells everything and nothing, and because I was
paying by card (having forgotten to bring enough cash to see us through, I had
to buy extra drink to see us through. We took a walk up the glen and around the
forest and generally enjoyed the sunshine. Still no eagles.
We cooked our curry in the “bus
shelter” at the campsite, and then went round to the castle for that evening’s
lecture by Mike the reserve warden, which was very good, and a useful intro to
the island. There was a big team of students in from Edinburgh Uni doing
environmenty stuff; they all seemed to be enjoying it. Weather looked a bit
changeable.
A Tornado
zipped overhead, we were very jealous.
The walk down was a delight, the
whole day we only met one other bloke, and saw maybe two others on the far
ridge.
For an evening treat we had tea in the hostel, not bad grub, but some excellent company. Met three retired gents who had been everywhere, enjoyed everything, and had stories about it all. Planning for tomorrow, we decided it was obviously weather dependant, but we had to be packed and ready for the boat at 1545.
The weather continued to
worsen and it was raining and blowing hard by the time we got back to the tent,
with plenty time to spare, so we holed up inside to while away the time,
planning a really quick bomb burst nearer the time. A fatally flawed plan!
We duly left it to the last
minute to haul the tent down, stuff everything away and head off into the rain
for the ferry at the pier. Which left ten minutes early without us. After some
stamping of feet and gnashing of teeth we went round to the hostel and threw
ourselves at their mercy. A room and showers were made available, booked in for
dinner and breakfast, and suddenly everything was fine again, apart from
everyone asking “I thought you were heading off today”. The hostel bloke
explained that the ferry quite often has to leave a bit early if the sea is
getting worse, so there’s a lesson learned. Good dinner with our new pals, who
had had a rubbish day attempting the ridge and failing, likewise breakfast.
Plus the sun came back out, although the wind was still cold. Joined the Eagle
Walk with Mike the Ranger, which was good fun although we did leave it till we
were nearly back at Kinloch before spotting the obligatory eagle (golden).
A fish supper in Mallaig was much
needed, and the train back down to Arisaig for the car was delightful. It’s
always a wee bit frustrating to have to drive home when the weather’s lovely,
but at least it made for a great end to a great trip with everything visible
for miles around, and quite a bit more snow on the Ben than at the start of the
week. All in all a brilliant trip, well worth the wait, and we still have
excuses to go back to finish the Cuillin Ridge.